Abraham – Louis Breguet, No. 178, Experimental ‘Souscription’ Prototype, Paris, 1792 – 1795
Category: experimental prototype
Description: Uncased, gilt brass, front wound, experimental ‘souscription’ 3/4 plate movement. Big barrel at the centre, secured by spring steel clip. Simple, flat, uncompensated brass balance underneath the dial. First type of Breguet’s jewelled lever escapement. Four spoked gilt, brass escape, pallets are slotted for oil retention. Balance spring regulator acting over an intricate system of linkage and adjustable at the rim. White enamelled copper dial with Roman numerals, five-minute divisions and signed ‘Breguet’ in capital letters. The dial secured with one screw and one pin at the edge of the movement. Movement rim engraved ‘BREGUET A PARIS No. 178. Single blued steel flat ‘Breguet souscription’ hand.
Dimensions: Diameter: 55.7mm
Movement: Experimental ‘Souscription’ movement
Additional Info: The concept of Breguet’s ‘souscription’ watch has been invented as early as 1777, by the Swiss watchmaker Jacques – Frédéric Houriet in Le Locle. He has described its development and construction in one of his manuscripts, where all the basics of the later refined version by Breguet are already mentioned. The single hand watch, constructed using as less pieces as possible was quite bulky and as Houriet only just sold around 100 in Zurzach (Switzerland) on a market, he didn’t continue to pursue its development. He must have shared the idea with his friend Abraham – Louis Breguet, who regularly visited Houriet in Le Locle and who started the adaptation and refinements of the system around 1792 (1).
The first experimental versions, as the one presented here, show much similarity with Houriet’s design. During Breguet’s exile in Switzerland in 1794 he continued the development of the ‘souscription’ watch most likely with contribution of his friend and host Houriet. He then continued their development only after his return to Paris in 1795. These watches were developed to contain as little components as possible, so to be affordable by less wealthy clients. The concept was to have the watch paid in four instalments, 25% paid upon order and the rest at receipt of the watch. Finally the watches cost between 550 and 900 Francs, which corresponded to a one years salary of a worker at that time, so not really affordable at all! (1)
As can be seen in this example, Abraham – Louis Breguet was not only an accomplished inventor and developer, he was also able to optimise existing systems, as he already did with developments of Jean – Antoine Lépine and will continue to do with ideas of London watchmaker John Arnold. From former he optimised the multi-bridged movement, the repeating system and what was to become the ‘Breguet – hands’.
The movement shown here is the second earliest of Breguets ‘souscription’ prototypes following Houriets initial version. It is considered an experimental movement (first experimental version) and shows a two plate construction with a smaller back plate and the wheel work around a central big barrel (the barrel not eccentrically located as in Houriet’s version), with the further difference of placing the balance underneath the dial to keep the overall construction very thin.
Thus, the main feature in these experimental ‘souscription’ versions is the huge, hidden, centrally located barrel (diameter: 25mm), with all wheels located around it on one side.
These very rare versions have not the ruby cylinder escapement which is used later and their balance is located underneath the dial, as mentioned. The watch is wound through the front, the winding square being inside the attachment for the single hand. The work on these versions was started as soon as 1792, as per production number, even if it is often stated that Breguet invented this watch type while in exile in Switzerland. The commercial versions of the ‘subscription’ watch are sold shortly after the return of Breguet to Paris in 1795. The back plates of these early versions are not signed. If available, the engraved signature and numbering is on the rim, also a pre-exile, Breguet workshop custom.
This movement is one of only four known, early experimental ‘souscription’ calibers. The three others are No. 319 (3rd series), No. 106/4291, and a unnumbered version (3rd series) which has no sale date. No. 106/4291 is almost identical to the presented movement. Only this caliber has Roman numerals on the enamelled dial. Other features of these earliest examples are the fixation of the dial by two screws or one screw and one pin from the rim and most prominently, the position of the balance underneath the dial. The dial has been made in a later developmental phase, which can be determined by the font used for the signature, introduced around 1795. There is no secret signature on the dial, latter will be introduced 1796 (2).
It is not surprising that some work started in the early 1790s and was finished after Breguet’s return from his exile in Switzerland 1795. Another interesting fact about this movement is, that it has the same production number as a traveling clock sold to general Napoleon Bonaparte the 24th of April 1798 (Sold at Antiquorum, Geneva, 14.04.1991). The same applies to watch No. 179, listed in Breguet’s ledgers with the date 5th March 1792. It is a quarter-repeating verge watch sold to Marie-Antoinette while she was imprisoned in the Temple There is also a travelling clock with the same number 179 (Sold at Christie’s, Auction 7864, 8.07.2010, London, Lot. 98). According to the Breguet certificate Nr. 2889 (1945, revised by Emmanuel Breguet 2010) the manufacture was started 1796 and the clock was sold in 1804 to the King of Naples, S.M. Ferdinand IV de Bourbon (2).
Finally this first experimental ‘souscription’ movement type was not further exploited. One other experimental movement version and some aesthetic refinements will be necessary until the definitive layout is found for production. In addition to the complex and costly escapements used in these experimental pieces, contrary to Breguet’s aim of creating a ‘simple’ and affordable watch, they also lack the symmetrical aesthetics he clearly sought after his return from exile. Moreover, the fact of having the wheel work stabilised by a second, albeit smaller movement plate, would make the servicing of such movements more difficult, than using Jean – Antoine Lépine’s idea of separate movement bridges, as for the later, commercial versions.
During inspection, cleaning and partial restoration it has been seen, that the original main spring is still intact and working fine. Unfortunately there was no inscription my the artisan on the main spring, as it was sometimes custom at time of manufacture.
The movement has been painstakingly regulated and when measuring the precision, it keeps time to the minute per day, which is remarkable for an experimental caliber made over 200 years ago. The precision of manufacture and of timekeeping are a striking testimony to the quality and dedication applied in the Breguet workshops.
Ref.:
- Sabrier J.C., Frédéric Houriet, Editions Simonin, 2006.
- Daniels G., The Art of Breguet, London & New York: Sotheby Parke Bernet, 1977
Omega Prototypes 